If you want to know what’s happening with men’s hair, check with the men’s grooming pros at American Crew. They always have their fingers on the pulse of trends for guys. They pioneered the men’s barbering movement, the development of modern men’s grooming products and the creation of stunning men’s imagery. So when they say the latest trend is longer lengths in men’s haircutting—believe it.

Barbering has been a strong trend for some time now. The techniques like skinning and fades are still popular. But we’re starting to see a response to these shapes in the form of longer hair for guys. These are wearable lengths that give guys the opportunity to move into something new from the more aggressive fades and tapers.

Remember That Length is Relative

We’re not talking flowing, Fabio hair here. Instead, this transition is about a little more length, with perimeters that aren’t as clean as crisply barbered shapes, and lots of internal texture. It’s a way to transition out of a fade. 

Sustain the Shape

When choosing the length, keep in mind that long is too long if the cut can’t support and sustain a shape. That will vary by hair type.  But a sustained long shape is what makes long hair modern. You also want to find the length that will give the client versatility. He should be able to wear it groomed or loose. I like shapes inspired by a blend of periods—like Bohemian rocker.

Lean = Masculine

To keep long hair looking masculine, you must acknowledge the principles of masculine design. First and foremost, the shapes must be tall and lean. That’s true even if you’re doing a shaggier cut with a ‘60s or ‘70s vibe. If shapes are too round or too wide, we lose our objective and the look becomes too feminine.

Customize the Silhouette

Again, long hair demands a visit to the basics of design when it comes to adapting the shape to each client. If the client has a full or round face.  It’s critical to create a long profile with height on top. Razor cutting is ideal for this. If the face is elongated, keep the bottom lean but avoid fullness on top. Create texture but not height.

Cut for the Texture

When it comes to technique, one approach does not fit all textures. If the hair is thick, for example, use extended, anti-head shape applications which would be defined as the exact opposite of graduation. Take vertical sections, go to the base of the fingers and slide the razor out from the head. This allows you to debulk without losing length. Cutting curly hair would be similar. Curly hair has its own support mechanism. The texture of the curl will determine if you should use a razor or shears. Fine hair is an individual situation. If the hair is so fine you can see through it, you don’t really have the luxury of extending the length. Keep it short.

Choose the Right Styling Products

Longer hair definitely needs the support of grooming products.  A hands-free texturizing spray that sprays on and acts as a liquid wax or a cream paste to add and control texture.

Teach Him How to Use His Products

You have to educate guys about product usage. They aren’t born knowing how to apply pomade or grooming crème, and they probably didn’t get lessons from their dads. Always tell them why you chose the product you did, how much to use, how to work it into their hands and press it into their hair.  If they blow dry, show them how to do it with their hands to create tension and support. Give them a mirror and let them see the back and sides to understand how it will grow out. These are usually ‘aha’ moments for guys!

Rebook Wisely

Appointment frequency for longer haircuts may diminish, so The long hair clients should book  for a bang or neck trim after four weeks, and re-texturize the hair if necessary during that visit if needed. Then four weeks after that, I’ll book him for a full haircut.”

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